CLINTON HILL LOCALE BRINGS  SENEGALESE FLAVOR TO NEIGHBORHOOD

Joloff
Function: noun
1: a town in Senegal
2: a must-try Senegalese restaurant in the Clinton Hill section of Brooklyn

For now, let’s focus on the latter definition.

The hustle and bustle of Fulton Street can seemingly make any spot, no matter how hot, damn near invisible to passersby. But Joloff stands out above the rest. Whether you’re there to chow down, unwind after work or just hear some good music, Joloff’s got you covered. Upon entering, diners are immediately greeted with vibrant, tangerine draperies hanging from the mile-high ceilings. African artwork adorns every wall and even the tablecloths, which were imported from Senegal, are a beautiful African print. And though small in size, Joloff makes up for it in character and delicious cuisines. Until recently, Joloff was well known for its colorful mural on the side of the building. The mural stretched the length of the restaurant and was a beautiful desert scene of vibrant gold and orange. But with the recent renovations to both the interior and exterior, the mural was painted over. But the folks at Joloff promise something new will come soon.

In order to understand all great things, one has to begin at the beginning. For Joloff, that began over a decade ago when owner Papa Diagne decided to open a restaurant with his siblings. The restaurant’s logo even has familial roots; Papa’s grandmother inspired it. The profile of a woman with a pot in the center of her head wrap, which is shaped like the Continent, has become the restaurant’s symbol. Papa, affectionately called Pops by many, didn’t want a watered-down imitation joint, but an authentic spot to make anyone reminisce on some home cooking, whether “home” is Atlanta or Zimbabwe. And Pops and his crew do just that. Seven days a week they serve up healthy Senegalese food. The joy of Joloff isn’t simply limited to Clinton Hill residents; publications like The New York Times, New York Daily News and celebs like Talib Kweli and Erykah Badu have all taken notice.

If you happen to visit Joloff on a night that features live performances, you’re in luck. Pops often accepts the invitations of local artists to perform. A performing schedule has yet to be set for 2008, but even if you miss out, there are always the sounds of Fela Kuti playing in the background. One thing you can count on is seeing folks of every walk of life grubbing on Joloff’s plentiful dishes. Pops welcomes the restaurant’s diverse crowd and sees it as a “melting pot on a small scale.” Continuing with the comfort theme, even a novice to Senegalese cuisine feels right at home when it comes to choosing what to eat. The intimidation factor of eating “foreign” food is removed with a use-friendly menu that lists the meals’ ingredients. Plus, Pops is always willing to further explain any of the dishes.

You won’t find any pork on the menu, but you will find dishes that incorporate traditional Senegalese ingredients of peanut butter and tomato sauce. Joloff is known for it’s vegetarian friendly menu, which includes almost a dozen healthy, meat-free options to choose from. However, the most popular dish remains the Tiebou Jeun, which is also Senegal’s national dish. The freshly baked fish, white rice stewed in tomato sauce and fresh veggies are the sure to please even the pickiest of eaters. And the crisp-to-perfection dough of the veggie patties is a great starter to any meal. Whatever the choice, Joloff leaves you full (not overly-stuffed and sluggish) and the check won’t leave your wallet empty; most of the entrees are under 10 bucks!

So you might not be able to locate Senegal on a map, but at least you know where to go to get a taste of what the country has to offer.

Joloff Restaurant (website)
930 Fulton St. (Corner of St. James and Fulton)
Brooklyn, New York 11238
718-636-4011
Get there: C train to Clinton – Washington Ave